Just about to walk the few miles to the ferry across the Rhine. Then it's France for a couple of weeks footing. Herzog gives a bleak impression of the next 300 miles - sousing rain, icy winds, open country, no shelter. His writings become more and more hallucinatory (the seed images of several of his future films amongst them). But he was ill-equipped in vile weather and pushing extreme mileage. I've got my hammock and tarp-poncho, the weather is currently mild for time of year and I'm allowing myself anything up to a week more for the same distance. I'm setting out on the next leg with some excitement.
I spent my first night indoors since leaving Munich two weeks ago. The lovely Lamm (Lamb) gasthof in the small-town- Baroque centre of Ettenheim. The huge breakfast alone was worth it (you mean I wasn't meant to eat everything in the buffet?). Plus I'm clean, rested and camera batteries charged. Yesterday evening I decided to mess with my cultural topography and ended up in a Spanish bar, drinking tempranillo, listening to flamenco and chatting in Spanish - so changing from Germany to France in an hour or so will seem logical.
They're putting up a christmas tree in the town square. I'm prepared to walk a long way to avoid that kind of nonsense. So I will.
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